28 Jul

Avoiding freebies in Barcelona

Custom House” by flickr user Davido

During our one day in Barcelona, we started with an early morning walk to Las Ramblas, the main drag and tourist trap. Seeking a city map, we approached a tourist information booth.

The booth was surrounded by barkers for a tour bus, who mobbed us, and anyone else passing by.

We studiously ignored them. Having lived and traveled in Asia, where people on the streets are extremely interested in catching your attention to sell you something, anyone who starts following us on the street saying “Hello!? Hello!? English? How are you?” just gets tuned out. I mean, we walk past those people as if they are invisible. Whatever they’re selling, there is about 0.01% chance we want it.

No one in China ever seemed bothered when you ignored them, or answered with the standard “bu yao” (don’t want)[1], but these Barcelona pushers seemed genuinely offended by us.

When we made it past them to the actual booth, the woman there explained that she could sell us a city map for 1 euro. Lame, we thought. Everywhere else they give you maps for free.  But, she continued, pointing to the tour pushers who we’d snubbed, they will give you a map for free.

Ah, well, then. Guess we should have listened to them this time around.

Of course, we still didn’t want to engage with the barkers. So, to save face, we asked where we could acquire a regional map, which we needed for route planning anyway. A bookstore.

The moral of the story? Well, there’s a couple conclusions to draw. First, that the taller half and I are stubborn and have a lot of (perhaps occasionally misguided) pride about traveling independently without falling into tourist traps. Second, Barcelona is no Beijing. And finally, what the heck, 1 euro for a map?

(We got along fine with a smart phone and the system maps in the metro.)

[1] Funny story from someone’s China memoir, although I’m sorry to say I can’t remember which one. After passing the same street sellers for weeks, and every day telling them “bu yao!” this particular expat had been learning some Mandarin. One day as she went by, she expanded her statement on noninterest to “don’t want yesterday, don’t want today, don’t want tomorrow!” And they smiled and laughed at her. And probably continued to pitch to her the next day and every day until she left the area.

22 Jul

Revisions

I just took this exchange out of my novel in progress. It makes me snicker, but it doesn’t have a place in moving the plot along.

“Miko, who sedated you yesterday.”
“An unorthodox management technique,” Glas said. “Please don’t try it.”
“I certainly won’t.”

You have to be willing to kill your babies, they say, but I can’t let it go entirely unacknowledged, hence posting it here.

18 Jul

Other blogging projects

As a communications professional, I try to keep my hand into a variety of social media platforms. I have recently poked into Pinterest, and found a lot of pictures, but I’ve also been following things on Tumblr for a couple years. I get a big kick out of the various Jane Austen related tumblrs, and some of the fuckyeah/fyeah/fy[meme] tumblrs.

One of my own tumblrs, which I’ve been running since I went to Sitka last spring, is Sea to Shining Tree, focusing on the Tongass and Southeast Alaska. Through that endeavor, I realized recently that there was a gaping hole in the fyeah memes that I could fill.

It is with great pleasure that I announce the launch of fyeah XTRA TUFFS, a place to express a passion for Alaska fashion, to celebrate the boot known as “Southeast sneakers,” or “Sitka slippers,” or any number of other monikers that reflect its amazing ubiquity in Southeast and other regions of Alaska. You can wear them fishing, as many people do, but they are also common streetwear for many places. With warm socks, you can wear them in the snow. With attached cleats, you can wear them on ice. You can wear them hiking or biking, or drinking or dancing. People wear them while they’re getting married.

When you think Texas, you probably think of cowboy hats. When you think of Alaska, you should think of xtra tufs. If you’re a tumblr, follow and signal boost, please!

17 Jul

Thoughts on Alif the Unseen by G. Willow Wilson

I read G. Willow Wilson‘s Alif the Unseen this weekend. Gulped, actually, the way you accidentally eat a whole pint of ice cream because you don’t notice until it’s mostly gone and then you might as well eat the last few bites. So a beautiful afternoon of biking on one of Puget Sound’s many islands was delayed while I found out how the story ended.

Alif is Willow’s debut fiction novel, but by no means her first publication. Her memoir of living in Egypt, The Butterfly Mosque, came out in 2010, she is the author of several graphic novels, and has written numerous journalistic pieces of the Middle East. She is also a fellow student at my martial arts school, which brought her writing to my attention–the Middle East is not one of my usual topics of interest.

Magical realism is, though, and so is a clever layering of mythologies into a contemporary storyline. Alif hits those buttons for me, and I’m very happy to have it in my library, even for a hardcover price. Willow acknowledges Neil Gaiman as one of her influences, and I can see that. Some of the story elements also make me think of Rushdie.

I found Alif to be a classic tale of good versus evil which follows Joseph Campbell’s monomyth structure quite closely.[1] Willow has hung a fine and fleshy narrative onto this familiar skeleton, and created a window into a world that you, my probably Western reader, probably do not know well. Our titular hero begins as a “gray hat” with the technical knowhow to offer cyber security from censorship, surveillance and other internet trouble to a wide ideological variety of clients. From his usual world, he is soon thrust into a hidden realm where jinns and efrits live at the edges of human sight, and he must learn the significance and use of a mystical jinn text. Helper figures appear to assist him on this journey into the unknown, and when he returns to his everyday world, he has the knowledge to change everything — rewriting the code that controls the computer systems of his city state, and aiding the popular revolution that has broken out as Willow’s fictional emirate joins the Arab Spring.

Of course, it’s not just a feel good adventure story. In many ways, Alif is also a book about faith. All of the characters in Alif are Muslim, with varying degrees of adherence. (If you find this peculiar, please imagine a book by a Western author, perhaps interweaving themes and images from Le Morte d’Arthur, and consider your feelings on an all Christian cast.) Although I am not overly concerned with religious content I went looking to see what other reviews had said, and found a number of them fixated on one particular quote.

Superstition is thriving. Pedantry is thriving. Sectarianism is thriving. Belief is dying out.

Each reader, bringing their own experience to the interpretation of the text, saw it differently. For one, it is part of how “this book talks about how sometimes religious people pick and choose what to believe.” Another sees it as an expression of the idea that “we are losing our way spiritually, even as the world seems to be receding into religiosity.” For the LA Times critic, the lines mean that Willow “wants us to recognize the extent to which the world, both internal and external, remains beyond us, not just out of sight but literally unable to be seen.” The Wall Street Journal uses the quote to illustrate that “the book advocates a model of Muslim faith that combines a return to the mysticism and spirituality that prevailed during Islam’s artistic golden age with a forward-looking embrace of the creative freedom allowed by unfettered access to technology.”

It should be obvious to you by know that this is a book which will mean many different things to different readers. I look forward to rereading it to appreciate the different layers, but on my first pass I was most struck by the blend of cultures: old mythologies overlaid by new technologies, the inmix of Western internet culture into the urban Middle East. As an American born, adult convert to Islam, Willow is a third culture voice. Obviously the names of Arab pop stars mean little to me and I undoubtedly missed the majority of Eastern cultural references, but I appreciate the Western nods. In the early chapters you will find a line from one of the original Star Wars movies, a childhood favorite for my generation, now staring down 30. There are shades of J.K. Rowling, as Alif is led by a jinn through a seemingly solid wall into the colorfully magical Immovable Alley. [2] These subtle nods demonstrate to me that Willow is aware of the storytelling tradition  in which she exists, of its breadth and its depth. Alif is also unabashedly wed to youth culture–there’s even a “your mom” joke–which is one of the aspects of the modern Arab world which Willow set out to reveal.

As I pursue my own writing goals, I have been reading science fiction and fantasy and encountering world building. When an author introduces to that certain alien race on a planet far, far away that has hitherto existed only in the author’s head, they must build up a world of words for us, the readers. They must show us how these beings act, how they dress, what they eat, explain enough of their culture that a reader can follow the logic of why the characters act as they do. With a subtle hand, Willow performs this same service for her readers, introducing them to the contemporary Middle East. She brings us an every day, living room portion of the Middle East which does not reach us through our television news. For that reason alone, this book is worth reading.

If you’re intrigued, pick up the book, which is in wide distribution. You can also follow along with Willow on her blog, or on Twitter, and if you’re geographically lucky, see her at an upcoming event of her book tour.

[1] Whether Willow meant this, or whether it is an artifact of how truly universal the monomyth is, I couldn’t say. When I reread the wikipedia page, just to make sure that my undergrad remembrance was correct, I was surprised to see how closely Alif tracks to the monomyth structure.
[2] I am not sure what the NY Times book critic saw when she wrote Alif was “a young man with Harry Potter potential.” I hope she means the potential to be the book that sells vast amounts and causes angst amongst conservative families who fear their children will be tempted to witchcraft, not just the potential to be the hero who defeats evil, because that’s kind of obvious.

03 Jul

Packing list critique

Back when we were packing for the trip, I made a post about everything I was taking with me. Now, for the edification of future bike tourists, I thought I’d go back and revisit the list.

  •  Ortlieb Backroller Classic Panniers – count me on the list of people who love their Ortliebs. Kept things dry in the rain, and at campgrounds I put our food in one and had no fears of small wildlife helping themselves during the night. The taller half got the backpack attachment for one of his bags, but I prefer to use the long strap and carry it over my shoulder. The backpack attachment is permanently fixed to your pannier once you add it, and needs to be rolled up and fiddled with any time you adjust your bag.
  • Orange REI stuff travel pack  – After the first two or three weeks, we almost exclusively carried stuff in this littlepack rather than pannier+backpack straps when walking around without bikes. It can hold raingear for two, lunch, and a camera, or quite a bit of groceries. Definitely glad to have this along
  • Upper body clothing – Having a button up shirt ended up being really good because I could quickly take it on or off, or leave it unbuttoned for temperature regulation. The taller half had arm warmers, but I tried to avoid single purpose clothing. The rest of the layers I wore at various times, but probably got the least use out of  the black long sleeve, because it was harder to take on and off quickly around a helmet. I did also find myself wishing for a tshirt length bike jersey instead of sleeveless, for sun protection.
  • Merrell Women’s Bare Access Arc shoes – Weighing less than 10 oz. for the pair, these were super lightweight and squishable into a pannier. I also found them comfortable for the walking we did, although the soles were thin enough that really lumpy cobblestones were worth avoiding.
  • Shimano mountain biking style bike shoes – Part of the stitching came undone, but since my shoes all scuff in the same spot, I think it has more to do with my style of walking than the quality of the shoe.
  • Novara Express 2.0 bike jacket in beautiful purple, black rain pants – We were lucky enough with the weather that I only wore the rain pants a handful of times, but I was glad to have them when I wanted them. The taller half didn’t bring rain pants, and was comfortable enough in leggings. If it had been any warmer in the rain, though, the steam inside would have defeated the purpose for me. The jacket worked great, and made a good warmth layer in the evenings or in the wind on descents. The visibility of the color I think was also a plys.
  • Lower body clothing – The gel pad on the liner shorts covers a smaller area than some of the padded shorts I left at home, but having the versatility was key. I was able to easily swap around between longer and shorter length of shorts and capris. However, I found that I wore the cotton pair of shorts more than the quick-dry synthetic ones, which I might leave out if we ever did a trip like this again.
  • Merrell Alexandra dress, which is so comfy that I sleep it in all the time, and black leggings to wear under it or on cold cycling days
  • 3x non-cotton quick drying undies, 2x Moving Comfort sports bras, 
  • 4x cycle socks – the two pairs of thinner smartwool cycle socks, which I bought new before the trip, quickly developed holes in the toes. A slightly thicker pair, looser around the toe box, from a no name brand which I’ve had since 2006 has no toe holes. Thinner socks seemed like they’d be better in the heat, but the smartwool ones were not a long term solution. Boo.
  • Bike helmet
  • 1x batik sarong for use as scarf, towel, skirt, etc and 1x purple tiedye bandana
  • Mess of toiletries/first aid, incl. one wee loofah, one bottle Dr. Bronner’s soap, one large bottle sunscreen, bandaids, neosporin, painkillers, hand sanitizer, tiger balm, chapstick, handwarmers
  • Small camera w/ case & battery charger – since the taller half took all the pictures, I took barely a dozen and could have left this at home.
  • Little blue flashlight – ditched before departure in favor of bikelight
  • Kindle, small notebook, pencil – I got a lot of use of all of these, although we had to acquire a pencil sharpener. The taller half had a tablet, and nearly every hotel and campground we stayed had wifi (everywhere in France and Spain, although Italy was more of a tossup), so I could check out ebooks from the library at home and update the Kindle. I kept a written journal of our travels.
  • Lady kit – ladies, you know what you need!
  • Shea butter and tea tree/vitamin E creme for prevention and treatment of saddle sores – I went on a fruitless search for Hoo Ha Ride Glide in the days before we left, couldn’t find it, and read on the Team Estrogen forums about the wonders of shea butter. I got 2 oz. of shea butter from Whole Foods, and transferred it from a fancy glass jar to a sturdier plastic jar. It was applied to saddle sore prone spots, used as chapstick and as skin moisturizer, fulfilling my desire for multipurpose items, and working fairly well on all accounts.
  • REI Halo 40 degree down bag and Women’s Prolite Thermarest – After the first week or two, it was warm enough that this bag was overkill. I have slept cold so many times in the mountains, though, that I found it really luxurious to sleep with a bag unzipped. The taller half had a much thinner summer weight bag and was occasionally cold; because I was extra toasty I was able to keep my bag unzipped and wrap part of it over him, giving back some of the body heat I have leached from him over the years. I returned a 1 inch Thermarest for a 1.5 inch pad before we left, and I have no regrets. Really, sleeping comfy in the tent for several weeks was key to a successful trip.
  • 3L platypus bladder – We were rarely without a place to fill up on water when we needed it, and the bladder was superfluous. On a ride through less populated areas, though, it would have been handy.
  • Sunglasses – Totally left my sunglasses in America when we left (on a rainy day) and had to get a new pair in Rome, because sunglasses are crucial.
  • Leatherman, multi-tool, bike lights, spare tubes, patch kit, chain lube – Somehow we were lucky enough to never have any flats, but we regularly checked bolts for tightness and oiled chains a few times. Even though we didn’t use most of the repair gear we brought, I wouldn’t leave it behind.
  • You can never have too many zip ties – Actually, yes, you can. I was absolutely convinced of the utility of these, but I only used a few to attach a papier mache rose to my bike after a holiday fair in Spain. I imagine most people could put two in their kit and be happy, instead of the twenty I had.
  • Bungee cargo net – The taller half got this and although I wasn’t impressed at first, I now find it one of the most awesome things ever. It held the tent to the back of my bike, and I could easily take off a layer and stick it under the net without having to mess with a pannier. When we had damp laundry, I put it in a mesh bag under the net to air out during the day. It was incredibly useful.
  • Cook set – We brought along the cook pot, teeny gas stove, iodine pills and whatnot that we take camping. We never used them once. Okay, we ate with our sporks all the time, because we consumed vast quantities of yogurt, but the pot? the stove? Shoulda left them at home, and never bothered buying fuel which we donated to the apartment where we stayed the last few nights through Air BnB.
  • Quick dry pack towel from REI –  Although small and yes, quick drying, I think I’d leave these at home next time. We got the smallest size, and constantly wished they were bigger and more absorbent. I started using my cotton handkerchief towards the end of the trip after showers, and liked it better. It absorbed more, wrung out as well, and was not unravelling at the edges.

Your mileage may vary, of course, depending on your trip duration, time of year, and location, but hopefully this is useful for those planning their own tours!