01 Aug

Ferry to Alaska

Had a chill time on the ferry.. saw humpbacks and Dall’s porpoises. Haines was lovely, as was the mother of a friend we stayed with, who had a big dog and an enormous cat. We drove to the river mouth there and saw a momma grizzly with twins catching fish, and some seals in the river as well. Lots of eagles around as well.

Drove up to Tok yesterday, passed through Canada. Saw a couple of cute and curious Arctic ground squirrels and a pair of coyotes (separately). I saw a black bear, but Alex missed it as the driver. We stayed in the Tok Motel, which was less run-down than I expected for a place behind a liquor store.

Today we’ve made it to Anchorage, passing through a lot of gorgeous, though mostly socked in, scenery. Saw the Matanuska Glacier, which was an impressive big pile of ice. Also went through some impressive road construction work. Saw a swan and a couple of rabbits.

Still haven’t seen any moose or caribou. We’re headed off to the Ressurrection Pass Trail, which will go through alpine lands and hopefully we’ll see some marmots and such.

That’s the wildlife update! Off to the wilds again…

25 Jul

Heading North

Off to the wilds again!

I’m about to take off for a long trip to Alaska. I haven’t been home in over two years, so I am super overdue. I’ll try to put accounts and photos up here, but it seems like the more interesting things happen, the less time I have to report back on them. Funny how that works.

Rough Itinerary
July 25-28 – Ferry from Bellingham, WA to Haines, AK
July 29 – Haines
July 30-31 – Drive from Haines to Hope, AK
Aug 1-5 – Hike Resurrection Pass Trail
Aug 8 – Fly out of Homer to see BEARS!
Aug 16-22 – Probably hiking in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.
End of August – Denali
First week of Sept – Fairbanks
Around Sept 8 – Bonnie flies back to Seattle, Alex drives back to Haines & puts car on return ferry.

Safety
Yes, we each have a first aid kit, and bear spray. The trip to see bears is a guided trip in a place where guided trips go every summer day the weather allows. On our deepest back-country trip, we’ll be accompanied by my dad, who works for a fire department, has been an EMT for about twenty years, and does plenty of backcountry trips on a regular basis.

We’ve got a spot beacon, which links up with a sattelite and sends one of three messages to a select list of email addresses and cell phones. The options are OK, HELP and OH-SHIT-SEND-THE-MOUNTIES. Alex has got it figured out to have the messages go here as well, so you can check them if you like. Coordinates and a Google maps link are included in each message.

I wasn’t planning on bringing my cell phone, but I think I will actually do so, and maybe try to update my voice mail message when I get service, so if you call me you’ll get something along the lines of “Hi, you’ve reached Bonnie’s phone. It’s July 24 and we’re getting on a ferry tomorrow for three days to Haines, Alaska. Still alive, haven’t done too much packing yet.”

So far, (haven’t quite left yet) the only thing that has gone wrong is that my cat, overnight, pulled out my carefully prepared bag of bags of dinner food and chewed a hole in one. Zatarain’s Red Beans & Rice smells like something tasty, so maybe we had better eat that one in a campground rather than on a trail somewhere…

Oh, and there’s apparently a foot of snow in Wrangell-St. Elias, which might melt off or might become two feet of snow before we get there, but we haven’t made any reservations with the air company to fly in for our hike there. Maybe we will bail and go somewhere else?

22 Jun

Back in Seattle

I am back in Seattle now, with clean air and familiar surroundings, able to see the sky clearly and understand what is said around me. How …refreshing.

There’s still a lot going on in China. The curse on the Olympic mascots, for instance. But I’m working a bunch in preparation for the Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival. If you’re in the Seattle area, you should totally come!

I know I’m a bum, but I’ll try to get the last photos and remaining tales of China up. (I know you heard this story before, about my experience on a jury.) Adventures and possible topics of discussion include..

1. The Qing tombs trek (with much rain and silent cursing)
2. The making of dumplings
3. The International Conference on Environmental Informatics that wasn’t
4. All sorts of things in Yunnan (fruits, yaks, mountains, lakes, yaks, gorges, pancakes)
5. The Carnival/Aquarium City of Dalian (with Castles! and seafood and fog)
6. The Woeful Tale of Abducted Women
7. Delicious Vegetarian Buddhist Food
8. My Language Partner
9. Why Customs Wants to See My Noodles

and probably other things. But now I need to go and meet a friend to throw a frisbee and have some bubble tea. Contrary to what you might expect, I did not find bubble tea on every corner in Beijing; I only had it once, and that was pretty much by accident.

14 Jun

When it rains, you have to climb over the metro tracks

Last night I went out to meet Alex and some friends to go for a foot massage. This should have been relatively tame — we were to meet at a nearby subway station, which is about 25 minutes walk, or less than 10 by taxi. It had started raining in a spectacular way an hour or two beforehand and the weather was still rumbly and occasionally shot through with lightning when I headed out, so I figured I was very lucky to find a taxi quickly.

I hopped in, stated my destination, confirmed that we would turn left, and off we went. After about three minutes, though, we ran into traffic, and as we approached the area of the metro station, it got progressively worse. The minutes ticked by, and the meter registered the waiting time as 15 minutes, 20, 35. My 10 kuai taxi ride was 22 by the time I decided I had to abandon the taxi. I felt bad for him, as he was pretty committed to the traffic at that point, but there was another street he’d be able to turn onto and get away, though probably not for another five or ten minutes.

The reason for the traffic, as Alex relayed to me on the phone and I soon saw for myself, was that the street dipped down quite a bit to pass underneath the metro line (it’s only underground on some lines here) and with the sudden rain, the depression had filled up with water. Police cars were blocking the street and a procession of umbrellas were either watching or speculating on crossing through the shallower water on the sides. I’ve made a crummy diagram in paint to give you an idea of the layout.


Of course, it’s not so simple as being able to go up into the subway station on one side and come down on the other, because the elevated section shares space with a regular rail line. And of course, people aren’t encouraged to walk on the railroad tracks, so it was fenced off on both sides. However, this did not stop the movement of foot traffic, but merely slowed it down. The fence on the near side was a small one and a section had been pushed over into the mud, held down only by the weight of people stepping on it. We crossed this one and walked across the railroad tracks. On the other side was a more substantial, wrought iron type of fence. Some people were climbing over, but one of our party was a lady in a skirt — impractical for climbing over fences.

Eventually we determined there was a section with a hole large enough for a person to scoot through if you crouched down. Because it was only big enough for one person at a time but needed to accommodate two-way traffic, a self-maintaining system had arisen — ten people passed through one direction, then ten the other way. We waited our turns and scooted through, as I went I heard someone say ‘Laowai zuole.’ The foreigner went/made it.

On the far side there was a similar congregation of police cars, flashing lights and blocked traffic. The divider down the middle of the street, between the lanes, dipped down and disappeared into the water, which must have been eight feet deep, over two meters, in the middle. While crossing over we could make out the tops of two unfortunate cars which were completely underwater. I have no idea how fast it filled up, but by the time I got there crews had been dispatched and Alex reported they had mucked around and opened or otherwise unclogged a couple of sewers and the water was draining slowly.

We continued on to the massage place and got our rub-down. It tickled a bunch, which I haven’t had issue with at other foot massages. They did a lot of assisted stretching and such that leave you feeling like a ragdoll. By the time it was done, it was about midnight, and back on the street the rain had stopped and all the water was completely gone, with no sign of the drowned cars either. There was a thick residue of mud on the street though, and there was already a crew of guys in orange raingear rinsing it down with hoses from tanks on trucks, and sweeping the water and mud down to the drains with big twig brooms.